A Mixologist’s prose..

// October 6th, 2011 // No Comments » // Cocktails

Are You Classic or Vintage?… A Mixologist’s Prose

Behind great creations, there are the basic principles and building blocks. Contemporary mixology is a great reflection on this principle as bars across America are reaching across the speed pourers to jiggers and blenders to muddlers.
I am an advocate for the revival of vintage spirits and classic cocktails in the use of the contemporary mixology. According to Susanna Bolle, a cocktail enthusiast and staff writer for WBUR Public Radio Kitchen, “The craft of cocktail-making had gone so far off the rails for so many years and there was a need for bartenders to back to the basics.” Aspiring mixologist or bartenders who take their work, and the customer’s drinking seriously, could use these classic recipes as reference and building blocks to creating better libations and concoctions. “Plus, the Classics are classics for a reason– they taste Fantastic!!”
Gone are the days when anything thrown into a martini glass is considered a “Martini”. The bar has been raised! Not only are we seeing a resurgence of delicious spirits and artisan liqueurs, the supply of these delicious nectar is much more readily available. Many cocktail enthusiasts rejoiced when the Boston Shakers store opened up in Sommerville, quenching our thirsts by supplying the cities’ shakers and stirrers with all the essential tools and references for crafting delicious cocktails. A delightful selection of syrups and bitters are now readily available to anyone who might want to  try their very first , and dare I say liberating, classic such as. Don “The BeachComber” or the “Martinez”.

When applying the classics to contemporary, it is also important to bear certain measures in mind. According to a highly respected Mixologist, David Augustus Embury, and the author of The Fine Arts of Mixing Drinks (1948), there are certain guidelines and basic principle in crafting a great cocktails, of which I strongly abide.

The ingredients of a cocktail can be categorized into 3 major groups:
The Base, The Modifying Agent, The Special Flavoring or Coloring Agent.

- The base would be the principle ingredient of the cocktail, typically a spirit. The Spirit would then provide the main flavor profile and the backbone for the rest of the components to build upon. Ie; Whiskey in a Manhattan, Gin in a Tom Collins, Tequila in a Margarita.
- Modifying Agents are the ingredients that gives cocktail its character.  ie; vermouth, bitters, fruit juice, herbs or “smoothing ” agents such as sugar, egg or cream. To a certain extent, the modifying agents are also used to soften the taste of the “raw” spirit. Examples of modifying agents are mint in a Mojito, fresh lime juice in a Daiquiri and egg white in a Pisco Sour.
- Special Flavoring or Coloring Agents are liqueurs, cordials or syrups that are used to complement both the Base and Modifying agents and to bring about a harmonious cocktail. There would be no classic Sidecar without Cointreau; the sun would not rise for a Tequila Sunrise without Grenadine.

It might be fun for one to try to identify these components the next time you have a cocktail. Knowing the basic taxonomy of making a classic cocktail might be useful when ordering or interpreting a drink. For example, a Sidecar would have Cognac as its base, lemon as modifying agent and Cointreau as special flavoring agent.

Embury also categorized cocktails into two major categories: the Aromatic type and the  Sour type.

For aromatic type, the modifying agents will be aromatic wines,  bitters or spirits.
Martini, Manhattan, Negroni are all great examples of the aromatic cocktails.

Cocktails of the Sour type would require a fruit juice, typically lemon or lime, and sugar or any other sweeteners (ie simple syrup, gave nectar, orgeat, grenadine). One of the most interesting comebacks is the revival of acid phosphate to use in place of citrus to bring in astringency and the indescribably “pop” to a cocktail.  According to Wayne Curtis from the Atlantic.com,  “when mixed with sweet syrup and carbonated water, acid phosphate created “a most delicious beverage,” as a Boston newspaper put it in 1888. The phosphate persisted as a staple for fountain drinks into the 1950s, but fell out of favor amid the rise of bottled soft drinks. “Acid phosphate does two bewitching things to a drink: The acid gives it sourness without making it taste like anything in particular. The salts enhance existing flavors, much as they do with food. The various elements of the drink (sweet, sour, bitter, sharp) are each discernible, but none is overwhelming.” Now, that is a fun modifying agent.

With these basic guidelines to help one understands the basic components of each types of drink, new cocktails can be created by substituting a different base or modifying agent, or by adding a special flavoring or coloring agent. Echoing the rules of David Embury, here is a list of my personal recommendations for crafting good libations:

• Good quality liquors. To quote the great Trader Vic, father of all Tiki trades

“First of all, you can’t make chicken Whisky (three drinks and you lay) taste like Grand-Dad or Old Taylor, and that goes for Gin, Scotch Brandy, or any liqueur. If you’re going to serve drinks, make them out of the best ingredients you can find- and you won’t find them at chiseling cut-rate liquor stores.”

• It should whet rather than dull the appetite. The flavors should be balanced in harmony, nothing too syrupy, contains too much fruit juice or too thick with egg or cream.

• It should be dry with sufficient alcoholic taste, yet harmonious in flavor and pleasing to the palate.
• It should be pleasing to the eye, of appealing color and well garnished.
• It should be served at the right temperature. Well chilled or heated to the favorable degree. Warm or chill the serving vessels when necessary before serving.

Whether one is classic, vintage or modern, it would be best that the list is a reflection of the establishment. Not only do you have to keep the customers happy as they are the final arbiter, but it is also important that it is profitable for the business as well.

Have fun, Mix up, Drink up and Cheers…

Just another day..

// September 8th, 2011 // No Comments » // Uncategorized

Scotch is Good, Scotch is Great, especially on such a cold rainy day. Thank you for my daily ration..I feel blessed.

Today is just another day in the life of the wine and spirits professional. Yes, it seems like an oxymoron,  but I am glad to be alive nevertheless. In spite of probably losing half of my liver, gaining the 10 pounds that came with the opening a restaurant and all the bottled up frustrations and anxiety, the past year in my life has been filled with fun and blessings  from  friends and the liquor Gods.

The past year was a bottomless concoction of adventures and bitter sweet memories. From the Summer of Riesling, consulting gigs to numerous power players, working with  local farmers and brewers, to the Certified Sake Professional Certification, there are definitely some swirling tales.

There is definitely a lot to catch up on….

Cheers to 2011

// January 10th, 2011 // No Comments » // Uncategorized

Wine is like fire, an aid and sweet relief,
Wards off all ills and comfort of every grief,
Wine can of every feast the joys enhance,
It kindles soft desire, it leads the dance.
- Payasis
…

Shake it like you mean it!!

// November 10th, 2010 // No Comments » // For Goodness Sake, Shots

Come to Umami and I will make you an Angelo and do not miss our Cocktail War event on Nov 15.

Rob Hoover and John Henderson will be rocking things up with some live pusic performance by Ryan Jackson!

Happy Columbus Day!

// October 10th, 2010 // No Comments » // Uncorked & Unscrewed

In Honor of Christopher Columbus, here are some interesting facts you might want to know about the American wine industry.
1) In 1880, Thomas Volney Munson saved the Phylloxera-infected French wine industry by sending American rootstock to Charente. From which state is the rootsctock from?

Ans: Texas

2) Name the single winery AVA in Texas:

Ans: Bell Mountain AVA

3) The first winery of Oklahoma produced commercial quantities of
Concord and Delaware wine between 1893 and 1907. From which state were the
rootsctocks from?

Ans: New York’s Finger Lakes

4) _________ , the first state that produced the very first wine in 1564.

Ans: Florida by French Huguenots at Fort Caroline

5) The Martha’s Vineyard AVA is surrounded by water bodies. The north is surrounded by Vineyard Sound; the east is by _____________________, and to the south and the west by the Atlantic Ocean.

Ans: Nantucket Sound

God Bless America!

Drinking for Inspirations…supporting Breast Cancer

// August 21st, 2010 // No Comments » // Cocktails

Please show your support to www.all4One Alliance.org and their support to breast cancers research by drinking “The MUSE” at Umami.

With every cocktail, $1 will be donated to the organization and their endeavors.

The MUSE – for Inspirations….

Chambord Vodka, Averna, Cranberry & Blood Orange

Cheers,

Summer Sipping

// August 2nd, 2010 // No Comments » // Uncategorized

Wine Tasting, July 06

// July 6th, 2010 // No Comments » // Uncategorized

Independence Drinking

// July 2nd, 2010 // No Comments » // Uncategorized

Yes, it is July,… For those of you who have just awaken to the new season and just wondering where the first half of 2010 went, do not panic, just welcome this second half of the year and the new season by celebrating July 4^th in style and make the best of what is left of the year.

Kluge Estate, Blanc de Blanc ’07, Virginia

This is a notable bubbly made in the traditional; Champenoise method from 100% Chardonnay grapes, grown at Kluge Estate, which is a stone throw away from Monticello, Thomas Jefferson’s vineyard. Patricia Kluge has been a major force behind Virginia’s wineries and she has hired many international consultants in the production of her portfolio. The Blanc de Blanc is the work of Kluge Estate wine maker Jonathan Wheeler and wine consultant Laurent Champs (owner and Champagne Master at Vilmart et Cie in Champagne, France).

A delightful bubbly with a rich and creamy texture. Warm toasty notes of vanilla crème brulee and Gala apples, leading to a bright and refreshing acidity, reminiscent of candied lemon. www.klugeestate.com

Fish House Punch

This is a classic cocktail, said to have been the favorite past time sips of George Washington at the State in Schuylkill Fishing Corporation in Philadelphia. Said to have been created in 1776, this classic cocktail is an amazing way to entertain guests at large parties, especially if you want to try something new other than Sangria or Punch. The Fish house Punch is also very versatile as it can be served warm or cold, depending on the occasion and the availability of ice. Cognac, Rum, Brandy and lemon juice…

For the best recipe, visit www.esquire.com/drinks/fish-house-punch-drink-recipe

Dr. David Wondrich is an amazing walking Mixology Encyclopedia and never fails to bring the life to the party by the revival of the classic cocktail.

Craft beers from Cambridge Brewing Company

At the recent Craft Beer Fest, I had tried the amazingly hoppy yet well balanced Audacity of Hops Ale. The warm toasty notes of freshly baked biscuit, baked apples and warm piecrust reminded me of the good old American cookout and Apple Pie. Remember the Obama “Hope” campaign?

CBC also celebrate Independence Day with their Red, White and Blue Beers: offerings of Red Amber, White Wheat Beer and Blueberry beer to celebrate this special occasion.

For more info, please visit www.cambridgebrewing.com

Whether you are celebrating the holiday at a cookout, pool party or sailing on a boat, have fun and please remember to raise your glass to our founding fathers and patriots.

Cheers!

Quote of The Day

// June 27th, 2010 // No Comments » // Shots

He says, She says…it’s simple; if you have nothing good to say, just shut up…and drink.
Ignorance is Bliss. Imbibing is Joy.